Not far from my former apartment in the Alki Beach neighborhood of Seattle, I used to walk along the shoreline and stare in awe across Puget Sound. On a clear day, the majesty of the Olympic Mountain range would sparkle and beckon me westward. Even when my schedule would forbid me from hiking her trails or camping on her vast beaches, the call to visit remained steadfast.
I don’t recall my first visit to Olympic National Park. It was either a hike near Lake Crescent, or it might have been a hike down to Shi Shi Beach. For our purposes here, I will combine the two destinations. I think you will get a better sense of what makes Washington’s peninsula so special.
From downtown Seattle, you can take the ferry to either Bainbridge Island or Bremerton. If a ferry isn’t enticing, you can drive to Tacoma and take the bridge to Gig Harbor. This choice will make the southern part of the park more easily accessible.
Lake Crescent is 17 miles from Port Angeles. Shi Shi Beach is near the most northwest point of the peninsula. Driving the winding roads to both locations, you will be fully engulfed in an endless sea of trees, as waves of every shade of green fill every vista within your reach. Every so often, there is a break in the greenery, and you can catch a glimpse of water. These rare openings offer an opportunity to appreciate the environmental conditions that make this rainforest so unique.
At both locations, I was struck by the churchlike silence and stillness. Far removed from the hustle and bustle of Seattle, there are few crowds to contend with, and tranquil seclusion can be found around every corner.
Lake Crescent feels pristine and otherworldly. Sitting near the northern edge of the Olympic Mountains and carved by glaciers, the lake is the perfect mixture of towering mountains, evergreen trees, and a mirror-like lake. In many ways, Lake Crescent is a photographer’s paradise. This held true for me during my visit. I could have spent hours trekking around her shoreline, blissfully snapping photos, finding new angles, and trying to capture an awe-inspiring sense of beauty. But photos will never do this place justice. It is meant to be experienced firsthand.
I have filled the internet with extensive essays about what makes Shi Shi Beach so special to me. I have hiked her shores three times and camped twice. Each experience has been rejuvenating. These experiences have also seemed to find me exactly when I needed them. Much like Lake Crescent, Shi Shi Beach is secluded and far away from the typical national park crowds. Hikers and campers mostly stick to themselves. Everyone seems focused on the same things. We all seem pulled in this direction for peace and quiet, to meditate on life, and to chase some sort of change. It is an exceptional place for me. It is a place I know I will return to again and again.
Be good to each other,
Nathan
First Impressions of Olympic National Park
in Essays